10 Day Winter Journey from Ghent to the Baltic Region: Riga, Tallinn, and Helsinki

Written By Marnie McLeod

There’s somthing deeply magical about winter travel. There are few crowds, slower mornings, twinkling lights and the feeling that cities reveal a more intimate side of themselves. This trip, spanning Belgium, Latvia, Estonia, and a touch of Finland, reminding me exactly why I love traveling without overplanning and letting places surprise me.

Two Magical Days in Ghent, Belgium

Ghent’s City Centre surrounded by beautiful buildings and the start of the Christmas Markets, 2025.

I arrived in Ghent just before Christmas, stepping off the train at St Peter’s Train Station after taking a train from Amsterdam. From there, an Uber took me to my family members home, my base for the next two days.

Ghent during Christmas is , quite simply, magical. Actually, even when it’s not Christmas it’s still magical as I have visited this place many times.

Because I know the city well, my days unfolded naturally: biking from my family members house into the city centre, wandering streets I love, popping into shops, and soaking up the festive atmosphere without rushing. The Christmas market was alive with warmth, glowing lights, laughter, dancing, and an incredicable variety of food stalls where I tasted mini pancakes, melted swiss cheese, and some dumplings. This was my first Christmas market that I have dreamt for years of wanting to go and my dream was fulfilled beyond expectations. Ghent’s Christmas market really delivered when it comes to choice, the smell alone could pull you in from streets away.

One of my favourite moments was visiting Gravensteen Castle, where a pop-up bar had been set up beneath the castle walls. Sitting there with a drink in hand, medieval stone towering above, Christmas lights glowing nearby, it felt like stepping into a storybook.

How to get to Ghent: I arrived via train using the SNCB app, which made traveling between Amsterdam, Ghent and later Brussels easy. Mostly, though, I walked or biked, and previously have used their tram system. This is the best way to experience Ghent. You can hire a bike from Ghent’s Library or from the train station.

Inside Gravensteen Castle (Top Left image), Mingling and wandering Ghent Christmas Market (Top Right image), Chrismas Lights (Bottom Left image), and delicious grilled food (Bottom Right image)

From Brussels to Riga

On the 24 December, I took the train back to Brussels and flew to Riga with Air Baltic from Brussels Airport.

Air Baltic turned out to be a fantastic choice. There aren’t many airlines flying conventiently into the Baltics, and their service genuinely impressed me, espeically after reading reviews I found them to be fine. I did paid little extra to increase my carry-on allowance from 8kg to 12kg and was absolutely worth it. The flight was comfortable and stress free. I’d happily fly with them again, and I did on my return back to Amsterdam after my adventure in the Baltic region.

Waiting to board at the modern and warm Riga airport

Riga at Christmas for four nights: Cozy, Traditional, and Unexpectedly Special

I stayed four nights in Riga, and honestly, it felt just the right.

My Airbnb was a two-bedroom apartment overlooking Doma laukums (Doma Square), near the main Christmas market. Every morning, I woke up to views of wooden stalls and quiet winter mornings and at night sights of Christmas lights, the kind you wish could bottle.

Famous Riga Christimas Market 2025 - Dome Square

Riga’s Christmas market felt very different from Ghent’s. Smaller, less crowded and more traditional. Food was cooked in large cauldrons, giving it an old world charm. My favourite dish was BBQ chicken on a stick with potato pancakes, it smelled incredible and tasted yummy. One night, I sipped on hot apple and pear drink, and of course tried the famous hot blackcurrent Riga Balsam. Suprisingly, there were fewer sweet treats here than in Ghent.

Photo’s above is Riga Christmas Market held in Dome Square, Old Town

Beyond the markets, Riga truly shines in Winter:

Photo’s above - wandering the streets of Riga’s Old Town.

I also indulged in Riga’s food scene, which deserves it’s own blog post:

Also explored local markets, including the Riga Central Market which is nearby old town and then Agenskalns Market, which is work the 40 minute walk alone. Riga in winter felt cozy, safe and incredibly walkable.

Just a heads up, when finishing up a meal in Riga it is advise to always check the receipt before making payment and ensure if you don’t want to tip has not been included. Some times ‘tip’ is also called ‘service’ fee will be added to the bill. Some restuarants will charge a ‘tip’ or ‘service fee’ if there is a large group booking as part of there policy.

Black Magic signature hot chocolate (Top Left image), inside Agenskalns Market (Top Right image), Starter from BABO Modern Georgian Cuisine (Bottom Left image), and Veggie stalls in Riga Central Market (Bottom Right image)

Getting Around Riga

I used Bolt for airport transfer. It was approximately €11 from the airport to Dome Square in Old Town and was easy to use. Skip Bolt’s airport machine and just download the app instead. Bolt pickups are clearly signed outside the terminal, and honestly, I found the service better than Uber. Once in Riga it is easy to walk around and buses are available. I could one bus from Agenskalns Market, to Old Town and it cost €1 where I purchased a ticket just outside the market….very easy to use and get around.

Onward to Tallinn via Helsinki

Rathern than taking the 4 hour bus (which most travelers do), I flew from Riga to Tallinn with Finnair, connecting through Helsinki. The total journey took around four hours, again similar to the bus, but the timing and price worked perfectly for me. Air Baltic also has many flight direct from Tallinn to Riga but found the best times were slightly more expensive.

Landing in Tallinn surprised me. It felt bigger, more modern, and more tech driven than Riga, with a noticable techie and start-up city vibe around the edges of Old Town.

Tallinn: History, Sea Air, and Winter Adventures

Tallinn revealed itself slowly.

I initially booked accommodation further out, then discovered it being not the best place for me to stay espeically in winter as a solo traveller with early darkness. While the hotel itself was wonderful, I quickly moved closer to Old Town and stayed at the Radisson Palace Hotel, which made all the difference.

Highlights included:

One of my favourite spontaneous moments happened on New Year’s Eve, when I discovered a local ice skating rink at Telliskivi uisuväljak. Skating solo with locals, snow falling lightly, this was one of those “this is why I travel” moments.

Nearby, I stumbled upon a huge food market near Tallinn’s train station, enjoyed salmon and dill dumplings, bought chocolates, and lingered longer than plan, but that’s the fun of unplanned travel.

Food wise, I found Riga stronger overall, but Tallinn had plenty of cozy cafes.

Getting around Tallinn is easy. I used Bolt services again from Tallinn airport to the main city and booked them again for my return. Each way was about €10. There are trams and buses available too.

If you have an early morning flight or arrive late, I highly recommend the Mecure Hotel. It’s only a 10 minute easy walk and I discovered an extra bonus with staying at this hotel is a large mall close by with a fantastic supermarket, great cafes and well known shops. If I knew about the mall, would have come out to the hotel earlier to give time to explore more of this area.

Photo’s above from wandering around Tallinn with nothing planned, all discoveries.

A Winter Ferry To Helsinki

As if the trip hadn’t already delivered enough adventure, I took a ferry across the Baltic Sea to Helsinki in -5 degree temperature, strong winds, and a snowstorm. It was wild, cold, and unforgettable.

In Helsinki, I walked from the ferry terminal to Market Square and had lunch at Ravintola Piilo, soaking in one last Nordic atmosphere before returning back to Tallinn. Ferry I went on was with Tallink and it was an enjoyable experience that I am please I did it as it was a last minute decision to take.

Photo’s above are is my trip from Tallinn to Helsinki via ferry. Trip across is only just over two hours, so not too long.

Final Reflections

This trip was relaxing, festive, and adventurous…..everything I hoped a winter journey would be.

Traveling without rigid palns allowed space for discovery, reflection, and unexpected magic. While group tours work for many, I know from experience more than ever that wandering on my own path is how I experience places most deeply.

If you’re dreaming of a cold, festive European winter, I can wholeheartedly recommend this route, just stay close to Old Towns, pack good layers (and don’t over pack which I did), and leave room for the unexpected.

Thank you for taking the time reading this blog and I hope it helps you with travel plan. Happy Travels!

Marnie McLeod https://www.marniesartoftravel.com
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Copenhagen: A 3 Night Winter Wander Trip